Whether you are new to rock climbing, you have been climbing since you could walk or you are somewhere in between, the bouldering grading scale can be a confusing topic.
Bouldering is a form of climbing performed on smaller rock formations, large boulders or artificial rock walls without the use of a rope or a harness. Most bouldering doesn’t exceed 20 feet.
Firstly, it is important to know there is no golden formula for grading when it comes to determining a problem’s level of difficulty. The bouldering grading scale is used both indoors and outdoors. The two most commonly used scales are the V-scale and the Font-scale.
The V-scale was born in Hueco Tanks, Texas in the 1980s. The “V” stands for “Vermin” or “Verm,” which was the nickname of a renowned boulderer and the inventor of the V-scale, John Sherman. The V-scale is open-ended, meaning there is not a top level of difficulty; rather the top grade will continue to increase as climbers complete more difficult problems. The scale starts at V0 and currently goes up to V17. It is helpful to remember that each grade has its own range of difficulty. For example some grades include a “+” or “-” to further indicate the level of difficulty,
The Font-scale or the Fontainebleau Scale is the grading criteria used in Europe. It originated in France in the largest and most developed area of bouldering in the world, the region of Fontainebleau. Similar to the V-scale, the Font-scale is open-ended. It begins at one, although any problems easier than three are rare to find. Once the scale reaches six, letters A, B and C are introduced to specify the level of difficulty. Additionally, “+” or “-” is used in the same way as the V-scale.
While grading problems outdoors, the grade is typically determined by the person who makes the first ascent and then can be adjusted as more people climb it. What also typically happens is people who frequent areas of bouldering will determine the grade and then it simply sticks. Eventually, guidebooks can be published and updated. The author can consult top climbers of the area to receive their opinions and guidance.
For grading indoors, the determined routesetter will climb it a few times and consult other climbers for their opinions, then after a few modifications, a grade is decided upon. Although, it is also common for indoor climbing and bouldering gyms to create their own grading criteria. For example, some gyms use a colored-tape or a colored-holds system where the color of the tape or the holds indicate the level of difficulty. Another example is gyms might grade problems from 0-4 on a beginner to advanced scale.
It is important to remember the bouldering scale holds a purpose but it shouldn’t be obsessed over. Every climber is at a different personal level, certain problems suit a climber’s specific style and some problems simply aren’t graded well. It is important to focus more on growing as a climber while lightly acknowledging the grade each time you climb.
To learn more about WVU’s climbing wall, visit https://adventureclimbing.wvu.edu/
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